Miyazaki is a workaholic, and that tendency was in full force by then. "When I was small, he would come home at 2 A.M. and get up at 8 A.M. and do TV series all year round," Goro Miyazaki recalled. "It was very rare for me to see him. Every morning, I'd look into my father's bedroom and see him sleeping. Just to check: 'O.K., he's here. He's in the house.' " When, in his early thirties, Goro started working closely with his father for the first time, on the Ghibli Museum, he felt that he "understood his creative processes so well precisely because he'd been such an absent father. When I was a child, I studied him. To learn more about him, I watched his movies obsessively. I read everything that was written about him. I studied his drawings." With a rueful chuckle, he added, "I think that I am the No. 1 expert on Hayao Miyazaki."

When I asked Goro if he'd ever talked with his father about what he'd learned about him, he laughed and said no, he couldn't picture that happening. He was closer to his mother, he said, who would take him hiking and mountain climbing, and who taught him the names of trees, flowers, and birds. But Goro did remember that after his father finished a production the family would celebrate with an eel dinner at a restaurant. When he pestered his father for toys, Miyazaki had shown him how to whittle instead—an ability for which he was now grateful. It left him with the feeling that no matter where he was he could make something with his hands.

As driven as Miyazaki was, he did not achieve fame overnight. He was in his late thirties by the time he had his first directing credit—for a Japanese TV series, "Future Boy Conan," as it's called, awkwardly, in English. And it wasn't until he wrote the manga "Nausicäa of the Valley of the Wind," and then received funding to make it into a movie, that he became widely known.

Toshio Suzuki met Miyazaki in 1978, when Suzuki was working as the editor of Animage, an animation magazine. He had been assigned to interview Miyazaki, but Miyazaki refused. "So I showed up at the studio, without phoning first, and Miyazaki ignored me," Suzuki told me. "He said only one thing: 'I'm busy. Go home.' I brought over a chair and sat down next to him. He said, 'What are you doing?' I said, 'I'm not going home until you say something to me.' I sat there till late at night, until he went home. The next day, I went back and sat down in that same place. On the third night, he finally spoke to me—to ask for advice. He asked about whether there was a specific term for this kind of car chase he was doing. I told him what the name was; we talked about other things, and after a while he consented to an interview. But then we tried to take a photo. He didn't want a photo. Only from the back. So I got pissed. I ran the shot and I did a little caption for it: 'A very rare photo of the back of Hayao Miyazaki's head.' That was my revenge. Starting from that day, we've been working together for twenty-five years, and I have seen him nearly every day."

In 1985, Tokuma Shoten, the publishing company, which had released the manga of "Nausicäa," opened an anime studio, Ghibli; Toshio Suzuki, Isao Takahata, and Hayao Miyazaki became its directors. The name was Miyazaki's choice; ghibli is a word that Italian pilots once used to describe a wind blowing from the Sahara. To Miyazaki, the name conveyed a message, almost a threat—something like "Let's blow a sensational wind through the Japanese animation world," Suzuki recalled, in a speech years later. The studio would produce animation that, as Suzuki put it in his speech, "illustrates the joys and sorrows of life as they really are: and, as Miyazaki put it in the Ghibli Museum catalogue, shows "how complex the world is and how beautiful the world should be."

Miyazaki threw himself into the project single-mindedly. "He would work from nine to four-thirty in the morning." Suzuki said. "And he didn't take holidays. He changed quite a bit when he turned fifty—he figured maybe he should take off a Sunday now and then. Now he tends to leave at midnight." (Miyazaki told me, "I don't take long vacations. I don't have the time. My idea of a vacation is a nap.")

Studio Ghibli's first film was "Castle in the Sky" (1986), a fable featuring a gutsy girl from another planet, a gallant boy from a Welsh mining village, a magical crystal pendant, and a variety of flying machines that look like futuristic imaginings from the nineteenth century. Neither it nor "Totoro" nor "Grave of the Fireflies" (1988)—an almost unbearably sad film, directed by Takahata, about two Japanese children fleeing fire-bombing raids in the last days of the Second World War—did well at the box office, though they received great reviews. But the "Totoro" characters had staying power: two years after the film was released, Ghibli licensed the merchandising of Totoro stuffed animals, and, when sales took off, the studio was able to cover any deficit in its production costs. And in 1989 the studio had its first hit, "Kiki's Delivery Service." (The apprentice witch, modeled on Suzuki's teen-age daughter, leaves her family for a time to live in a coastal city in Miyazaki's Europe, starting her own business delivering parcels by broomstick.) "Kiki" was seen by 2.6 million people, becoming the most popular domestic movie in Japan that year.

At that point, Miyazaki floated the idea of disbanding the studio. "He felt that after directing three films, made with the same group of people, the human relationships had become too tangled," Suzuki recalled. He eventually convinced Miyazaki that closing shop would be a mistake. (Suzuki is perhaps one of the few people, if not the only person, who can talk Miyazaki into anything. "He knows how to handle Miyazaki," Takahata said. "He knows that it's like dealing with a child: when you want something, you say the opposite, because you know he'll say no to your suggestion.")

The studio became successful to the point that the staff was working on two projects at once. Miyazaki, Suzuki recalled in his speech, "came up with a proposition: Let's build a new studio!" He went on, "It was the Miyazaki way: when facing a problem, try to find a break-through by coming up with a much bigger problem."

The day I spoke with Suzuki, he was wearing black jeans and a T-shirt, and was chain-smoking. "Young people, unknown people with aspirations—they are very pure, honest, and so on," he said. "Miyazaki saw that I was not that type, and he liked that." Suzuki is the public face of Ghibli. He, not Miyazaki, attended the Venice Film Festival, in September, where "Howl's Moving Castle" won an award for technical achievement. He's funny and shrewd, and he fills in for the interview-shy Miyazaki with flair. Suzuki told me, "Just recently, Miyazaki-san came into my room at night and we had a talk—just the two of us. He said, with a very serious look, 'What are we going to do about Studio Ghibli? There aren't many young talents out there.' He said, 'I think I can do this another ten years.' I said 'You can? Another ten years?' Japanese fans tell him, 'Please keep making animation.' I'm the only person in Japan who hopes he will retire soon."

Takahata and Miyazaki, who worked together so closely for years, have lately moved in different directions. Takahata is more interested in literary and film theory, more cerebral and less enamored of magic. His films are not for children, and "Grave of the Fireflies" could easily have been a live-action film. Takahata is sixty-nine, but he has a formidable head of dark hair and a handsome, unwrinkled face. "With Miyazaki, you have to totally believe in the world of the film," Takahata told me. "He is demanding that the audience enter the world he has created completely. The audience is being asked to surrender." He paused. "I want the audience to have a little distance. My relationship with him is limited now. We are friends but we don't have a direct working relationship."

For many viewers, of course, surrendering to Miyazaki is a pleasure. Weeks after I saw "Spirited Away," I was still thinking of the scene in which Chihiro takes a train trip, in the company of No Face, to seek out a witch who may help her save her friend. The sequence is both emotionally precise and fantastical. It's like every solitary journey you've ever taken, when you felt lonely and a little exalted, but it is also deeply strange, for the train glides, stately and surreal, over a translucent blue sea, while the sky slowly ripples through the possibilities of a sunset, from the pink of crushed petals to a soft, forgiving black.

On the wall of one of the Studio Ghibli buildings is a kind of joke about Miyazaki's fears of invasion: two aluminum poles and two red hard hats on pegs. The staff was free to borrow them, Miyazaki explained to his colleagues, in order to repel unwanted visitors. But during my visit to the studio Steve Alpert, an American who heads Ghibli's overseas division, showed me around, and in an upstairs room I saw Miyazaki hanging out with a couple of animators. He had shown the completed "Howl's Moving Castle" to his wife and the Ghibli staff that day. He was in a relaxed mood, and when I started asking him questions, through a translator, he started answering.

Miyazaki's hair was parted on the side, and a luxuriant hank of it fell over one eye periodically, Veronica Lake style. He wore big oblong glasses, gray slacks, a light-blue short-sleeved shirt, and straw-soled sandals with white socks. At first glance, he seemed full of suppressed amusement—even jolly.

Today, Miyazaki announced cheerfully, marked the last time that he would watch "Howl's Moving Castle." "I never watch my films after they've left the studio, because I've lived it and I know exactly where I've made mistakes," he said. "I'd have to sort of cringe and hide, just close my eyes. 'Oh, right, I remember that mistake, and that one.' You don't have to go through that torment over and over." The remark was punctuated with a giddy, slightly maniacal laugh—more of a giggle, really. In any case, he said, he was already planning his next project: a short film for the museum. "I have several I have to make. What can I do? I have to keep feeding my staff," he said, gesturing toward a group that had gathered around us. "Look at all the mouths I've got to feed here."

I asked him what had attracted him to "Howl's Moving Castle." He said, "Sophie, the girl, is given a spell and transformed into an old woman. It would be a lie to say that turning young again would mean living happily ever after. I didn't want to say that. I didn't want to make it seem like turning old was such a bad thing—the idea was that maybe she'll have learned something by being old for a while, and, when she actually is old, make a better grandma. Anyway, as Sophie gets older, she gets more pep. And she says what's on her mind. She is transformed from a shy, mousy little girl into a blunt, honest woman. It's not a motif you see often, and, especially with an old woman taking up the whole screen, it's a big theatrical risk. But it's a delusion that being young means you're happy."
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